Tamiya Eurocup 2001 - Set Up Info |
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Tamiya cars are generally easy to build and set up for the track, but there are always things to learn. We have tried to assemble some information about each class and relevant chassis to give you some guidance. These are our suggestions that are offered for what they are worth. As ever there is nothing to beat your own testing for your own driving style. For some guidance on how to go about this see some of the links on our links page. If you would like to add something to my comments please let us know by e-mail. Formula 1
The GT1 bodyshells now predominate this class. Rob Chaldecott's set up from WLRC for his GT1. 4WD
Rick Draper's set up from Macclesfield for his TA04. Last year the TA03 has dominated this class but the TA04 is set to be the choice of the top racers. Others might try the TB01, however most of the top racers do use the TA04. Stock Touring
Several chassis are eligible, but the TL01 seems to be top, or at least has been so far. The NSX bodyshell is the preferred shell for the top racers, although others are used. This shell seems to give a good balance to the car. The TL01 really needs several hop ups from the out of the box kit to be a good racer. These are the bearings set, the damper set (part number 50746), the 3 degree toe in rear hubs (part number 53345), and the steering arms (turnbuckle tie rod set, part number 53300) which should be set to 0 degree toe in. The kit tyres (part number 50419) are too hard and need changing. The best option appears to be the Super Grip Radial Tyres (part number 53214) and the M2 Radial Tyres (part number 53227). Super Grips at the front & M2 on the back seems to be best for carpet and the other way round for tarmac. Hard sponge inserts would appear to be acceptable. These suggestions with tyres need some experimenting, but we can vouch for the other hop ups. All the TL01 kits come with friction dampers, which should be upgraded to part number 50746, although plastic oil dampers from other kits such as the TA02 appear to work acceptably. They perhaps do not give such a low centre of gravity. The speed tuned gear set is of use outside, but of no benefit indoors. Some kits have different parts, and as long as the kit is allowed then so are the parts. For example one kit replaces the rear bumper with a metal plate (saving weight), and has a wider track at the rear (giving better steering response). Both of these are allowed. Simon Knight's setup from Stafford for his TL01. Download a Set Up Sheet for the TL01 in Adobe Acrobat format here. Download Adobe Acrobat free by clicking on their logo at the bottom of the page. Rally
The TB01 kit works well out of the box with some tweaking of the dampers to soften the rear and to adjust the ride height to the minimum 5mm. The On Road Spring Tuning Set (part number 53163) is useful here by using the softer springs on the rear and the harder ones (or the kit ones) at the front. The bearings set is essential as always. The chassis is very strong, being almost the same as the IC powered TG10, and many of the gears are metallic. Reducing the weight of these using the plastic gears (part number 53401) would seem to be a sensible addition. The carbon prop shaft would be attractive but is too fragile to be of use. The rally block tyres work well with either hard sponge or shaped tyre inserts, although in neither case are do they offer as much grip as other tyres would do. In 2000 the only chassis allowed was the TB01, whereas in 2001 the TA03 chassis is permitted. At WLRC the first two cars were TB01, whereas the next two were TA03, one with the motor at the rear, the other with the motor at the front (although this configuration seems to nose dive over the jumps). It would seem that they compete fairly equally - in the right hands anyway! Rob Chaldecott's set up for his TB01 from Macclesfield. Download a Set Up Sheet for the TB01 in Adobe Acrobat format here. Download Adobe Acrobat free by clicking on their logo. |